With its rugged coastline and green rolling hills, Istria is the perfect destination for anyone craving time spent in the great outdoors. Visitors to this heart-shaped peninsula in northern Croatia can go from sailing to hiking to truffle hunting in a matter of hours — with a break or two for decadent wine tasting. Here’s where to go for the full Istrian experience, with wineries and truffles galore.
Cobblestone charm in Rovinj
The cobblestone streets in Rovinj add a quaint touch to the town
(Image credit: thethomsn / Getty Images)
For a coastal escape, head to Rovinj. Follow the cobblestone streets that weave through this charming seaside town and see where they lead you — it might be down to the shore to watch the fishermen in port, to the Batana Eco Museum that’s dedicated to the wooden boat Rovinj is best-known for, or to Old Town. Stroll past colorful buildings and pop into boutiques and sites like the Baroque Church of St. Euphemia. For a small admission fee, you can climb to the top of the church’s belfry to take in beautiful views of the area.
Golden Cape Forest Park is a green oasis
(Image credit: Mindea / Getty Images)
More spectacular scenery is close by at Golden Cape Forest Park. Park visitors can walk or bike along the paths at this verdant space, filled with cypresses, laurel trees, Lebanese cedar and eucalyptus. If you are more of a beach bum, head to the turquoise waters of Lone Bay to swim or explore the pebbled shoreline.
Sign up for The Week’s Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Go back in time in Pula
Centuries ago, gladiators battled in this Roman Amphitheater
(Image credit: Gonzalo Azumendi / Getty Images)
In Pula, the largest town on the peninsula, history still stands. The Roman Amphitheater dates back to the first century, and gladiators once fought here. But it has a new purpose today: The imposing limestone arena draws sightseers and hosts concerts, athletic competitions and the Pula Film Festival. The Temple of Augustus was constructed between 27 B.C. and A.D. 14 and destroyed during World War II, but it was almost immediately reconstructed. The nearby Golden Gate is from a similar era, built between 29 and 27 B.C.
Hunting for underground treasures
The rare white truffle can be found in Istria
(Image credit: katyenka / Getty Images)
Make sure you add truffle hunting to your Istria to-do list, because this is one of the only places in the world where both black and white truffles grow. Expert truffle hunters take visitors to the forests in Motovun and the Mirna River Valley to search for these delicacies, often ending the adventure with a tasting.
If you want to eat truffles without all the hard work, head straight to restaurants like Zigante in Buje. Here, truffles are always the house special and the menu is built around the harvesting schedule. Black truffles are available year-round and white truffles are there in the fall and early winter.
Istrian hospitality at its best
Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery has a contemporary design
(Image credit: Istria Tourist Board)
Wine lovers, rejoice! Istria is one of Europe’s oldest winemaking regions and the town of Bale is leading the charge. The region’s fertile soil and Mediterranean climate makes it ideal for grape growing, and over 100 wine producers have set up shop here. At the elegant Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery, guests get to see the intricacies of winemaking up close. The property’s 12 acres of vineyards produce 14 varieties of red and white wines that can be sampled during individual or group tastings, with full glasses enjoyed at dinners in the on-site restaurant. Accommodations include contemporary rooms, suites and residences and luxurious stone villas with gardens and private pools. While wine is the main attraction, Meneghetti also grows olives — and their “liquid gold” oil is beloved.
Olive groves are all around the San Canzian Hotel & Residences
(Image credit: Istria Tourist Board)
The picturesque San Canzian Hotel & Residences in the medieval village of Mužolini Donji blends traditional Istrian design with modern amenities. The 24 well-appointed rooms and suites overlook lush olive groves and forests, as does the large rooftop infinity pool. For a truly restorative experience, book a massage in the spa and take advantage of the Finnish sauna, wellness zone with jacuzzi, and hot and cold foot bath. Afterward, you can retreat to the on-site Michelin-recommended Luciano Restaurant for a dinner made with fresh local ingredients.
The modern Roxanich Winery & Design Hotel boasts bold decor
(Image credit: Istria Tourist Board)
The Roxanich Winery & Design Hotel feels thoroughly contemporary, featuring 32 sleek rooms and suites with custom furniture and flooring. This hillside property promises gorgeous views of Mirna River Valley and its vineyards produce 20 varieties of organic wines (try them, along with Istrian specialities made from local produce, in the hotel’s innovative restaurant). Roxanich is a family affair, owned by Mladen Rožanić and his six daughters.
Get a taste of Istria
Savor the flavors of Istria at the intimate Malo Selo restaurant in Buje. Try out the stone dining rooms or get some fresh air outside and order the fireplace-grilled steak, homemade bread, traditional pljukanci with boskarin pasta dish, and fresh gnocchi (of course, you can always add truffles to your order). Taverns like Konoba Kazun in Pula and Konoba Vorichi in Orihi also serve Istrian specialities and fresh seafood, meat, pasta, risotto and local wines.
Are you a fan of fresh seafood? Tony’s Oyster Shack is as good as it gets. For the last 20 years, Tony’s has been raising oysters in the protected waters of the Lim Fjord and serving them up to happy diners with glasses of wine. True bivalve fans can even book a private boat tour with Tony’s to go looking for oysters.