Minimal cool at Courrèges, flamboyant chic at Rahul Mishra

Courrèges opened the third day of women’s shows in Paris in style. A collection with the brand’s typical streamlined design, offering desirable, wearable pieces. For his part, Rahul Mishra unveiled his new ready-to-wear line, which he is relaunching this season, showcasing artisanal craftsmanship and accessible products.

 
Judging by the décor, ‘Duel in the sun’ seems to be the theme chosen by Courrèges for this season’s show. At the end of a dark corridor was an immense square of dry white sand, which could just as easily be located in a faraway desert as on the moon. After an hour’s wait, the sound of a strong wind filled the room. The first models entered the arena in little asymmetrical white dresses, kicking up a cloud of dust as the ground crunched beneath their feet.
 
Since presenting his first show in March 2021, creative director Nicolas Di Felice has continued to write the same story, each time enriching the DNA of the new Courrèges, coherently combining the codes of the house; owned by Artemis (the Pinault family holding company), with a fresh, cool and contemporary language well anchored in its time. With clean, graphic cuts and geometric lines.

Silhouettes were ultra-short, with the incursion of a few long dresses and coats, while the palette was minimalist, alternating black, shades of white and earth tones. The emblematic trapeze shape was shunned this season in favor of mini wrap skirts and small coats with rounded edges, like frock coats. Dresses were slit high up the left thigh, while revealing the right shoulder. Jackets, too, were worn with the right shoulder dropped, accentuating the asymmetry of the look.
 
Shirts were revisited. Some shirt-neck dresses featured a deep V-neckline, as did a white sweatshirt worn as a jacket. Blousons, skirts, fitted tops, short coats and bell-bottoms made up the essentials of this punchy yet practical collection. The futuristic style, dear to founder André Courrèges is discreetly alluded to in certain accessories, such as two bras, one in transparent plastic, the other in metallic silver. As well as in details, such as the curved heels on shoes.
 
As always with Courrèges, next summer’s collection features pieces in leather, crocodile effect or vinyl. In particular, pieces with full-length side slits, held in place by buckled straps. From a distance, they were reminiscent of fringed cowboy pants. While other pieces were unexpectedly cut, slitting tops vertically down the center of the chest, or pants accross the top of the thighs. Thigh-high boots were also dominant on the runway.

Rahul Mishra chose Paris to celebrate the launch of his new ready-to-wear line, which he had suspended in 2020 during the pandemic to refocus on haute couture. He is back with a new project called ‘Afew’, an acronym for ‘Air, Fire, Earth, Water’, referring to the four natural elements that make up our planet.
 
With this line, the Indian designer aims to maintain his sustainable approach by continuing to highlight his country’s craftsmanship and those who have been working for him from the start. “My artisans who usually work on couture creations are all taking part in the project. Most of the embellishments are made by hand in our workshops,” Rahul Mishra explains just before the show. “More than ready-to-wear, I see this as easy-to-wear, much more affordable than my couture. I want to offer an inclusive line that appeals to a wider audience,” he adds.
 
There are no size or gender restrictions for this line, which is aimed at women and men alike, with pieces for everyday wear, such as simple basics, but also for evening wear or partying. Many garments are enriched with Rahul Mishra’s signature embroidery, appliqués, rhinestones, gathers and ruffles.
 
The brand is positioned in a price range from 350 to 2,500 euros.” We want to elevate the concept of ready-to-wear with sourced materials and artisanal treatments. The idea is to distribute Afew in an international multi-brand network, but also in dedicated boutiques,” explains Vishrut Dinesh, Reliance Brands’ business manager in charge of Rahul Mishra.

Last year, the brand, which has six of its own boutiques in India, entered into a partnership with India’s leading retailer of fashion and luxury brands, selling it a 40% stake. Afew’s first single-brand boutique will open in Mumbai at Jio World Plaza, Reliance’s luxury shopping mall.