Whether it’s your first or tenth visit to Japan, kaiseki is a must. At Den, the traditional multi-course Japanese dinner that highlights the current season’s bounty gets a modern spin thanks to chef Zaiyu Hasegawa’s creative mind and whimsical personality with signatures like the Dentucky fried chicken, where a wing is cradled in a paper box reminiscent of a certain fast food colonel, and a 20-vegetable salad topped off with an emoji-fied carrot. Sushi lovers should also make a reservation at Sushi Kourin, a celebrated establishment that offers both omakase and à la carte nigiri. But if you’re searching for some of the best pork cutlets in the city, head over to Tonkatsu.jp, where the cuts have been carefully selected from small farmers all across the country and are then double fried by chef Daisuke Masugi for some of the most tender morsels you’ll ever come across.
Photo: Courtesy of Wanmuisubi Co., Ltd.
When it comes to more casual options, Uoriki is run by a fourth-generation owner who acquires fresh fish every morning for his seafood-forward menu that includes the shop’s specialty, miso-simmered mackerel. While the internet will tell you to visit Ichiran for ramen, skip the chain and make a beeline for Hayashi to slurp up an unctuous broth made from a combination of fish and pork bones. And for a homey, wallet-friendly meal, head up to the second floor of a nondescript building to find Torikatsu Chicken, where sets feature your choice of fried goodies, rice, cabbage, and soup. And we can’t forget about dessert, which is best enjoyed at Azuki to Kouri. Owned by Miho Horio, formerly the pastry chef of Michelin-starred Florilège, it’s an elevated and seasonal take on kakigori (Japanese shaved ice) that shouldn’t be missed.