new Black Label line designed by Todd Snyder presented in Milan

After a sample was previewed at the Pitti Uomo menswear show in Florence, the debut collection of Woolrich’s new Black Label line designed by Todd Snyder has arrived in Milan.

The new line, featuring menswear only, embodies Snyder’s vision for Woolrich in terms of design, aesthetic, materials and fabrics. “Todd loves working in Italy, with local wool producers and high-tech fabrics specialists. Most of the collection is produced in Italy,” said Stefano Saccone, CEO of Woolrich, talking to FashionNetwork.com.
 
Snyder has been appointed creative director of the Black Label line, and is also overseeing Woolrich’s main line as creative adviser. The US stylist has redesigned the American brand’s entire Milanese showroom, introducing the new interiors concept that will be unveiled by next autumn at Woolrich’s New York store, with a special section dedicated to the Black Label collection.

“We started from typical outdoor garments, and upgraded them by adopting more modern silhouettes and using luxury fabrics. It’s been a uniquely exciting experience,” said Snyder. “The more I worked on the line’s technical aspects, the more I was thrilled at the idea of designing clothes able to meet the requirements of outdoor activity, while at the same time being the statement items of an urban wardrobe,” he added.
 
In the USA, Woolrich Black Label will be exclusively distributed via the Todd Snyder label’s 20 monobrand stores. In Europe, the line is aiming to reach approximately 50 retailers, between specialist and department stores, “and will enable us to tap some new clients,” said Saccone.

Woolrich posted positive results in fiscal 2023, though the last part of the year was tougher than expected. “We recorded sustained growth in H1, driven by the wholesale channel and by e-tail, which grew by 25% and accounted for nearly 20% of total revenue,” said Saccone. “2024 got off to a strong start, thanks also to the cold weather. For the year as a whole, we are forecasting growth between the high single digits and the low double digits,” he added.
 
“Todd’s appointment will allow us to further promote Woolrich on the US market, which accounts for approximately 10% of our business,” concluded Saccone. Woolrich currently operates 40 monobrand stores, and is available at some 1,100 multibrand retailers worldwide. The brand generates 75% of its revenue in Europe, and 10-12% in Japan.

The Black Label Fall/Winter 2024 collection presented in Milan consists of two strands, Heritage and Technical. For the former, Snyder has revamped workwear staples like the Military trench coat, with a shearling lining and soft off-white leather on the outside. The latter has instead a more high-tech feel, incorporating for example the Birch Parka, with a glossy exterior in drop-dyed nylon, and the Ripstop Parka, in a bright olive shade.