MILAN — For a designer like Andrea Adamo, who has put the enhancement of the female body at the center of his creative vision since Day One, presenting a new collection with no models seemed a stretch.
Yet the arty project and installation he staged to unveil his Andreādamo brand’s fall 2024 collection was still impactful, as the Italian talent showcased his clothes sandwiched between plexiglass panels — putting a focus on their constructions — and flanked these displays with an AI-generated campaign.
Adamo believes that reaching people with an idea is as satisfying as seeing a collection on a catwalk. “It’s not hypocritical to say that fashion shows are different, but this project gave me the opportunity to express myself even more on a creative level, because it’s more difficult to make an attracting presentation than an attracting fashion show,” Adamo said.
“And without women. Because I didn’t want to be banal. So I came up with my own art gallery,” he added with a smile, stressing he wanted his garments to be at the center of the attention, without any distraction.
Andreadamo fall 2024
Courtesy of Andreadamo
Yet the imagery developed with photographer and artist Eamonn Zeel offered a compelling presentation. Zeel interpreted Adamo’s second-skin approach to fashion and the fusion of clothing and physicality via seductive images, blending reality and AI. “This woman doesn’t exist and the garments’ folds here retrace the ones of her body,” Adamo said.
As for the collection, the two-dimensional display was intended to further highlight the details in Adamo’s knitwear and the inside of his tailored pieces.
Known for his brand’s sensual, body-hugging knitwear styles, this season the designer introduced a new scuba fabric that lent a sleek, leather-like look to structured jackets, oversize coats and pencil skirts with zippers.
Andreadamo fall 2024
Courtesy of Andreadamo
The daywear offering also included mannish pleated pants turned seductive via cutouts on the waist and flannel tops with lingerie details. In knits, viscose was mixed with velvet both in contrasting shades or tone-on-tone for a graphic effect. Maxi cardigans and cropped sweaters in more generous volumes made an appearance next to the brand’s signature formfitting ribbed pieces, with the designer imagining these items layered over full-drape evening dresses.
Ever since the launch of the brand during the pandemic, Adamo has gradually expanded his language to new fabrics and explored outerwear. He staged his first runway show in Milan in February 2022, and presented collections in such a format until this season.
Born in 1984 in Crotone — in Italy’s Calabria region — the designer cut his teeth at Elisabetta Franchi before working in the eveningwear division of Roberto Cavalli. Other roles were at Zuhair Murad in Paris, as head designer celebrities and special projects for Dolce & Gabbana, and at Ingie Paris.
Andreadamo fall 2024
Courtesy of Andreadamo