Eudon Choi’s 2024 pre-fall collection was a meditation on the brand’s pragmatic wardrobe staples of sleek suiting with a subversive twist.
Choi said he was inspired by the paintings and sculptures of Lee Ufan, a South Korean artist who pioneered the Mono-Ha movement in Japan that prevailed in the mid ’60s.
The movement, which translates to School of Things, takes a step back from traditional artwork and explores industrialization. Take Ufan’s 1991 series “Correspondence,” where crushed stone pigment was dappled on canvas, or sculptures from “Relatum,” which were composed of rocks placed on iron plates.
Choi nodded to Ufan’s works in the collection’s subdued color palette: neutrals — tan, black, white — dovetailed into soft pale blues and deep navies. A midi-length skirt, a belted trouser and a plunge-neck maxidress all bore a pattern of painterly brush strokes on satin fabric in another ode to the artist.
The lineup, ranging from woolen outerwear, cashmere knits, tailoring and dresses, is sure to resonate with his customer base and those seeking to build their collection of subversive basics.
Throughout was “an undertone of ’90s minimalism,” Choi explained, something seen in pieces such as a a trench coat with convertible detailing that allows the wearer to toy with its silhouette; a pair of straight-legged trousers with an attached belt; a series of satin bias-cut skirts, and a long-sleeved column gown, complete with shoulder cutouts.