There was an affinity between the feminine-masculine duality imbued in Feben’s first solo show in Milan and the designs of Dolce & Gabbana, which supported London-based Ethiopian designer’s show as part of its ongoing project endorsing young names.
Previous guest designers Karoline Vitto and Miss Sohee sat front row to watch the parade of feminine tulle dresses, which alternated with graphic blazer jackets and tailored pants cuffed at the ankle with jewelry. The designers’ presence was proof of the community-building aspect and diversity of the project, reinforced by Feben’s casting, led by Ashley Graham.
“I think the reason you’re not seeing [diversity] around is because you don’t see a lot of Black women in creative roles,” she said backstage. “That’s really important, because obviously I want to feel seen and I think anyone should feel seen no matter what body type and skin color they have. And I think it’s really important to have more people onboard from different parts of the world. That makes a huge difference.”
Her body-con pieces were the highlight. She reworked the ruching technique of her Twist dress — dating back to her Central Saint Martins days — in crushed velvet, opting for acid green and electric blue colors to heighten the impact.
In the same vein, she introduced other eye-catchers via spiky textures inspired by the work of artist Simone Yvette Leigh and its nods to African architectural traditions. The designer went for a softer take on the reference, covering sheer ladylike dresses and tank tops with hand-sewn spikes made of mesh.
Diving into Dolce & Gabbana’s archives, Feben related to the ‘90s animal prints, so she added tiger-printed jersey frocks and inserts. The prints were developed across Italy, London and Accra, where the designer worked with artisans to craft the upcycled plastic beadwork that decorated chaps, jewelry and bags.
“It’s always challenging to create a collection: each look is like your baby and then sometimes you have to edit. That’s quite hard. Sometimes you have to kill your darlings,” she said. However painful, the puffers and button quilted pieces should have fallen into this category.
For more Milan Fashion Week reviews, click here.