Linear thinking doesn’t belong in Henrik Vibskov’s vocabulary. His fashion has always been more a conversation-starter than a wearable offering.
For spring, however, Vibskov’s 22-look coed lineup revisited very common tropes — from the military-nodding onesie, the short pajama sets and parkas to pantsuits and handkerchief dresses — twisting them via his signature quirky lens.
Talking about his spring inspiration, the designer tackled such apparently random topics as hands, octopi and adaptation, taking the conversation — and the lineup — to a few too many directions.
Lightweight and devoid of structure, the see-through technical parka and parka-dress, the scalloped sheer cape over a pleated dress and the pleated straight-leg pants with fabric scraps jutting from the hips conveyed Vibskov’s seasonal message of morphing clothes.
When silhouettes skewed more traditional — in the pantsuit, knit-tube dress and robe coat, for example — the Danish designer’s ethos came about in the colorful hands’ outline and checkered patterns, the latter overlaid with marine motifs, or with big black brushstrokes and rusty orange stains as if dissolved or eroded.
Vibskov unveiled his collection with a presentation in Milan, returning to the city’s fashion week after more than 10 years as part of a collective of Danish talents brought to Milan by the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair.
For more Milan men’s spring 2025 reviews, click here.