London as a city has become a construction site with new skyscrapers and apartment blocks taking space away from its greenery, but that didn’t discourage the Norwegian brand Holzweiler from daydreaming about mycelium and fungi for its sophomore show at the Tate Britain.
The sibling founders of the brand — Andreas, Maria and Susanne Holzweiler — first came to the museum when an exhibition on scarves was taking place in its great hall, fitting for a brand that started by selling scarves.
“When we came to the museum, it was all [covered in] rutabaga yellow, which is our color and, of course, the tall ceilings,” said Maria backstage.
Heavy knitwear in cream that bounced as it moved was inspired by a lion’s mane and was worn over exaggerated puffer jackets embellished with crystals that resembled Super Mushroom from the “Super Mario” franchise. Slouchy sleeves borrowed from the British sleaze aesthetic while relaxed tailoring was casual enough to wear to a bar or pub.
Holzweiler will be opening its first London flagship store this fall, adding to its existing portfolio of stores that includes units in Norway, Copenhagen and three in China.
“[The U.K.] is definitely one of the targets,” said Maria, praising London for embracing the brand so quickly.
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