Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Men’s Spring 2025 Runway, Fashion Show & Collection Review: Wind-powered

“The collection is inspired by wind, as we tried to capture and represent the nature and the qualities of [it], as well as everything that is associated with wind — air in motion,” said the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake design team. 

“As we developed the collection, we looked at phenomena caused by wind, the patterns [it] makes in nature, and crafts and designs that respond to wind,” it continued. “With these approaches, engaging with the theme of wind from different aspects, we wanted to create clothing that has a deeper connection with wind.”

The design team, for instance, studied the structure of a kite and adapted it to some garments’ design. It took a cue, too, from a parachute’s construction.

Many pieces in the lineup for spring, which was full of graceful, highly wearable clothes, swayed or waved as models walked the runway — thus inspiring the collection’s name, “Up, Up and Away.”

The lightweight, sheer and, of course, signature pleated fabrics used to make the fashion counterbalanced the billowing, often layered, silhouettes.

Some looks had a “windswept plaid,” a distorted print, in orange, white and black, or yellow, navy and white. A softly rounded banana-colored, hooded jacket flared out in the back like a cape. That coat style, hoodless, also appeared in a shorter version.

Long shorts or pants in solid, fresh colors, such as a pale pinkish-periwinkle and white, came with large square pockets.

For the fashion show’s scenography, the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake design team worked with Vincent de Belleval, who created an instillation of tall, delicate sculptures with slatted, bulbous tops that rocked as models — and the wind — passed them by.

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