More recently, the brand was worn by none other than Beyoncé during her Renaissance world tour.
Hobeika says that while there has been progress in couture’s creative diversity, more work still needs to be done.
“Couture weeks all over the world should be more inclusive – it’s not a matter of discussion,” he says.
“Everyone brings to the table something coming from a personal experience, and [everyone] lives a life of their own, where they see the world and fashion from a special point of view that can change the way everyone looks at clothing.”
Hobeika’s own work has Middle Eastern references, including ornate beadwork and whimsical patterns.
“We bring our oriental origins in so many details and cuts that have been a part of the brand since its first day, and we mix it with our contemporary way of thinking towards clothing,” he says.
Hobeika was among several Middle Eastern and African designers who showed during haute couture week.
Another name to know was Sara Chraibi, a Moroccan designer whose Maison Sara Chraibi showed a collection spanning collarless suits, capes and spacious, hooded dresses inspired by the Buraq, a winged horse with a woman’s face that is common in Arabic art history.
Meanwhile, established Lebanese designer Elie Saab presented a dramatic collection that focused on capes, and countryman Zuhair Murad offered up a new range of evening wear.
Mohammed Ashi became the first Saudi Arabian couturier to show on the event’s official calendar, while other Middle Eastern brands on the schedule included Mona Alshebil, Hindamme, Charmaleena, Chador, Atelier Hekayat and Abadia.
The rise of designers from more diverse backgrounds has also ushered in cultural exchange and new perspectives on sustainability.
Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi showed a collection inspired by the paintings of Russian artist Paul Chmaroff. He used the Ewondo word for circle (mguilguidigueu-mteun) as the title of the collection, which featured pieces made from silk, sustainable bamboo viscose and aloe tree bark.
The made-in-Africa offering boasted a circular theme, which manifested in ruffled pieces and round, geometric tops.
A look from Imane Ayissi’s haute couture autumn/winter 2023/2024 collection in Paris. Photo: Getty Images
Meanwhile, Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato showed a collection of red, black and white hues inspired by a trip he took to Africa and the indigenous tribes he encountered in drought-affected areas of Kenya.
His new “Magma” collection features robe-like drapery combined with feathers and dramatic ceramic jewellery.
Ayissi notes that haute couture week has technically long been open to designers from other countries, citing the appearance of Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garcons’ Rei Kawakubo in the 1980s.
“But at the same time, it’s very demanding to follow the Paris fashion rules and codes. That’s why it had been so unreachable for a long time.”
A look from Imane Ayissi’s haute couture autumn/winter 2023/2024 collection in Paris. Photo: Getty Images
The struggle continues for outsiders, but Ayissi remains optimistic.
“Today, Paris Fashion Week and especially Haute Couture Week is more open thanks to the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, which is ready to help designers wherever they come from as long as they have an original point of view, strong style, and a strong sense of quality,” he says.
He thinks the shift benefits Paris as well.
“These non-Western designers from India, North Africa, sub-Saharan Africa and Asia bring [a new] point of view, different aesthetic and creativity, which are the fuel of fashion,” Ayissi says.
“It’s a win-win strategy. There’s more visibility and credibility for these non-Western designers, more creativity and newness for Paris Haute Couture Week.”
Indian designer Rahul Mishra, who recently dressed Zendaya on her visit to India, was the first South Asian designer to show at Paris couture week, in 2020. He returned to Paris with his latest collection, titled “We, the People”, honouring those who form part of his “slow fashion” mission – which sees him employ villages of workers to handcraft his garments that can take weeks or months to make.
A look from Rahul Mishra’s haute couture autumn/winter 2023/2024 show in Paris. Photo: Getty Images
Another Indian designer that dazzled was Gaurav Gupta. He showed a new collection inspired by the concept of hiranyagarbha, the creation of the universe in Vedic philosophy. Some of the dresses looked futuristic, with large, whimsical shoulders; other gowns featured ocean-like, flowy shapes.
Meanwhile, South Korean couture designer Jisoo Baik presented her latest collection in a stately building in Paris’ seventh arrondissement. Models lounged around a salon, where a house photographer snapped them in a studio-like setting under a huge umbrella light. Guests were invited to meander through three rooms.
Baik cites couture from the 1930s to the 1960s as influences, alongside that of more recent names like Alexander McQueen.
A rising star in couture – her designs have already been worn by Bjork and Ariana Grande – Baik honed her skills working at Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Mugler.
“In my experience, I’ve been welcomed with open arms,” says the designer, who is planning on moving into footwear next. “[Paris has] now, more than ever, proven itself as the centre of the couture industry.
“I feel that there is room for people from all over the world to come here, learn and present their collections.”