With awards season in full swing, it’s Jenny Packham’s time to shine. Quite literally. If you’ve spent the past few weeks scrolling through the red carpet galleries from the Golden Globes and Critic’s Choice Awards (among the many, many other events taking place in Hollywood right now) you’ll have seen plenty of her gowns doing the rounds—not least on Emerald Fennell, a long-time fan of the brand who included some the designer’s looks in the costuming for Saltburn. (Packham’s brand of upper-crust, hedonistic glamour has Rosamund Pike’s Elspeth Catton written all over it, after all.)
Still, this season’s offering looked to a very different corner of throwback razzle-dazzle for inspiration: namely, the late-’70s heyday of Grace Jones, David Bowie, and Bryan Ferry. “It really allowed me to go full glam,” said Packham, before admitting, with a laugh: “Although I know I often go full glam.” With the intention of designing for movement—diaphanous blouson sleeves in a yellow chiffon; draped, lavishly sequined fabrics that appeared like liquid metal; dramatic beadwork and tassels hanging from sleeves and swishing skirts—the end result was just as splendid (and sparkly) as you might expect.
Arguably more surprising, though, was the increased presence of separates alongside Packham’s signature dresses, notably in a series of tops and bolero jackets bedecked with crystal embellishments and paired with simple, sleekly-cut silk trousers. According to Packham, sales have been booming over the past few seasons, and the inclusion of these tailored pieces was as much a response to commercial interest as it was an opportunity to flex her creative muscles in a different arena. “They’re quite classic shapes, but they sell very well both with dresses and on their own,” said Packham.
It turns out Packham’s cinematic streak isn’t ending anytime soon, either. Those watching the new season of Ryan Murphy’s Feud, which drops later this month, and focuses on the fall-out between Truman Capote and his glamorous high society swans (the latter being regular sources of inspiration for Packham) will be rewarded with more of her glitzy gowns making an on-screen appearance.