Louis Vuitton closes Paris Fashion Week by going into orbit

Bernard Arnault, the patron of Louis Vuitton, loves a big show, and he got an immense one Tuesday night as designer Nicolas Ghesquière closed out the official Paris runway season with a mammoth display before 4,000 people.

And the clothes weren’t half bad either. Actually, one of the best collections Nicolas Ghesquière has ever designed for the house, as the French creative director celebrated his decade at the helm of Vuitton.
 
The action centered around a gigantic flashing orb, created by monumental artist Philippe Parreno, whose orbit had taken it down into the Cour Carrée du Louvre. Made all the more dramatic as pre-show electric shower unleashed on the transparent roof of the show tent.

No shortage of star wattage in the front row either: from Sophie Turner in baggie Scarlet Pimpernel pants, braces and black top, to Emma Stone in a pants and fencing style bolero with leg o’ mutton sleeves. Beside them, Chloë Grace Moretz, Saoirse Ronan, Phoebe Dynevor and Kelly Rowland. Though first prize for the best look went to Cate Blanchett, recycling her cobalt blue Vuitton silk shirt, in which she attended last year’s Oscars as a nominee.
 
A collection which had all the best of Nicolas’ unique fashion blend: active sportswear; futurist chic; superlative finish and gutsy draping.

See catwalk

Opening with an all-white athletic quartet – Norfolk jackets cut as high-neck blousons and worn with pocketed ruffled skirts. Jumping back and forth between day wear and evening, he showed mega pailette sheaths and floor-length dresses before sending out hiking jackets cut as cocktails.

Though his key idea was a remarkable series of bouffant or peasant dresses made of stunning stiff silks printed like LV bags or monogram prints. Whatever you think about Ghesquière, it’s unquestionable that few designers anywhere demand such clever experimentation from their atelier and artisans.
 
“This is a particular evening. A meaningful evening. Ten years ago, you came to my first show for Louis Vuitton. I remember the feeling of ‘beginning’, the immense joy I felt to be among you. This joy is still here. Ten years later, this evening is a new dawn,” said Ghesquière in his program note, in which he thanked Bernard and Delphine Arnault, and his two CEOs while at Vuitton, Michael Burke and Pietro Beccari, for their “trust.”
 
Parreno’s set featured a quartet of black wastelands, suddenly illuminated as the main star and its satellites became fully illuminated.  Pre-show, they all made so much noise it sounded like they might take off, or that a mounted cavalry helicopter regiment was about to attack. 

See catwalk

With the set going into overdrive, there was a posh robotic section, a very fresh series of putty gray military vests with nipped waists – all sure to be copied by weaker talents. With most of the cast – easily the best selection of intriguing new faces in any show this season – wearing shaggy shearling gloves, and a few carrying new metallic matelassé mini cases.
 
Before finishing with the best look – Rianne van Rompaey, who opened Paris Fashion Week’s final day in Chanel, and officially finished it in Vuitton. Attired in a great asymmetrical and askew feathered dress topped by a mini leather cape. 
 
All together winning Ghesquière a prolonged standing ovation, which he took with a beaming smile, dressed in his trademark all black.