Mr. Saturday is in his New Romantic era.
Brand creative director Joey Gollish has polished up the punk in his ongoing exploration of club subcultures. This season he looked to London’s legendary and fashion-forward Blitz Club, which brought us Boy George, Adam Ant and Spandau Ballet back in the day.
Cue the glamour.
The big shoulders and rougher edge of last season’s collection are softened up with dandy touches such as ruffled collars tucked under bomber jackets.
Gollish connects the dots between his logo, which features seven circles, and a wavy new S shape. That graphic is embroidered on shirts creating an undulating pattern on sheer shirts. Polka dots, a popular print at the time, is also reinterpreted as embroidery on shorts and bombers. adorn the shoulders of T-shirts as floral appliqués, or as a contrasting print on dress shirts and pocket squares. Double-breasted blazers retain structure, while satin coats graze the floor.
Gollish moved on from pure streetwear some seasons ago, honing his elevated tailoring aesthetic. He’s continued to explore those codes, and delivers a double-breasted blazer with broad shoulder pads, and uses blown-up, contemporary newsprint with stories about the Blitz to create a bold graphic.
The line is organized as both sets and separates; for example, a modern take on the suit has both a short or a pant to mix and match. Trucker sets are a favorite of Gollish, and he gives an update with pinstripes, complete with popped collar.
The brand held the presentation in a hidden annex above the Andy Wahloo cocktail bar, decked out in rail racks where guests were invited to try on looks in between sips.
The designer, who has done double duty as the creative director at Canadian leathergoods brand Roots since last year, said that the co-creating and producing relationship has settled into a natural rhythm. He can compartmentalize between the codes of the two houses, while having the production for both brands located in Canada has been a boon for North American buyers. It hits key points of keeping supply chain and production local and traceable, plus allows for quicker turnaround on orders.
The one downside, according to Gollish? Mr. Nightclub himself has had to become a morning person.