PARIS — Best be in Olympic shape for the fall 2024 edition of Paris Fashion Week, which includes this year’s leap day.
According to the provisional calendar released Monday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode there will be a total of 109 events spread between Feb. 26 and March 5.
That means 71 shows — only fall 2020’s 75 runways topped this — 37 presentations and the now-traditional opener with the Institut Français de la Mode, presenting the work of its 2024 master in fashion design students.
Belgian Marie Adam-Leenaerdt will open the season with her 4:30 p.m. show, and Louis Vuitton has reprised its tradition of closing the shows in Paris.
The French luxury house’s 6:30 p.m. show on March 5 will mark the 10th anniversary of its artistic director of women’s collection Nicolas Ghesquière, whose contract was renewed last November for another five years.
While the nine-day calendar will broadly keep the shape of previous seasons, with cornerstones such as Dior, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Chanel, Stella McCartney and Miu Miu in their usual spots, a few shifts and swaps were made.
These include Victoria Beckham, who will follow at 8 p.m. after Yohji Yamamoto on Friday; Ann Demeulemeester and Alexander McQueen, swapping spots on Saturday, now at 6:30 p.m. and 8 p.m. respectively, and Mugler slotting in after Y/Project on Sunday.
Skipping this ready-to-wear session is Maison Margiela, which showed its couture Artisanal line during Paris couture on Thursday.
The week will also see the runway return of Lacoste after a two-and-a-half-year absence. It will be the formal debut of creative design director Pelagia Kolotouros, who had presented her first designs in a presentation in New York last fall.
Vetements, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year and most recently launched “mini-me” versions of its wares, will show fall 2024 womenswear at 5:30 p.m. on March 1.
After winning the 2023 Special Prize at the ANDAM jointly with Duran Lantink and getting married last summer, Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre will return at 6 p.m. on Feb. 27 with the fall collection of their size-inclusive label.
Also back in Paris with an 11:30 a.m. slot on Feb. 29 will be Off-White designed by Ib Kamara, after skipping the spring collection and presenting its resort and pre-fall 2024 in Milan.
As announced in December, Marine Serre will show on the women’s calendar with a 1 p.m. show on March 4, after her dedicated menswear presentation in January.
Making their show debut this season are Japanese knitwear label CFCL, which had been staging presentations in Paris for the past two years, and Zomer, Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha’s brand that debuted last season with an off-schedule show — and a spot at Dover Street Market Paris.
They will be at 8 p.m. on the first day and 11:30 a.m. on March 5, respectively.
Joining the official presentations schedule are Milan-based Gabriele Colangelo and 14-year-old Maxhosa Africa, a South African knitwear brand by Laduma Ngxokolo that pays homage to the rich Xhosa culture.
Also among presentations are returnees Róisín Pierce, Chen Peng and Rochas, for the debut collection of recently appointed creative director of ready-to-wear Alessandro Vigilante.