Translated by
Roberta HERRERA
Published
Apr 23, 2024
Six decades of designing bridal fashion from Barcelona for the global market have cemented Pronovias as a flagship brand in the international bridal industry. Founded by Alberto Palatchi, the Barcelona-based brand, which launched its first collection of wedding dresses in 1964, is now entering a new era marked by significant changes across all fronts. Following a change in ownership at the end of 2022, with BC Partners handing over to Bain Capital and MV Credit, May 2023 saw Pronovias appoint a new CEO, Marc Calabia, succeeding Amandine Ohayon. This leadership transition was paired with a shift in creative direction, with Anna Ramírez taking over from Alessandra Rinaudo. Coinciding with the celebration of Barcelona’s bridal fashion week held from April 17 to 20, the firm used its customary runway show to unveil the key elements of its new strategic direction.
Described by CEO Marc Calabia as “disruptive, artistic, and innovative,” the show did more than deliver a meticulously crafted marketing narrative; it manifested as a tangible pivot in the brand’s creative proposition. Moving away from the flashy, Victoria’s Secret-style spectacles and the opulent aesthetics of past years, Pronovias embraced a minimalist elegance—a bold move for a brand known for its definitive and recognizable style, yet one that reflects a necessary evolution to stay relevant in contemporary times.
A more minimalist showcase
For this significant anniversary showcase, Pronovias chose a venue outside the usual confines of the Fira de Barcelona, where most Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week shows are held. Just steps away from this area, atop Montjuic Hill, the majestic National Art Museum of Catalonia, offering panoramic views of the city, played host to the event. The show attracted 750 guests—a significant number, but a move towards intimacy compared to the brand’s historically large-scale events. Despite its current preference for discretion, the front rows glittered with celebrities like supermodels Karolína Kurková and Nieves Álvarez, style icon Olivia Palermo, and actors Ed Westwick, Adriana Ugarte, Ana Rujas, and Quim Gutiérrez.
The runway show commenced following a brief film projected onto a central white cloth, paying homage to the brand’s roots and affirming the new product design direction’s allegiance to Pronovias’ historical DNA. The opening look—a simple, straight-cut mini white dress with a geometric train paired with black fishnet stockings and modest heels—set the tone for the event, declaring a new vision for the brand.
Unique and architectural designs
This new approach targeted young, contemporary brides seeking simplicity without sacrificing personality. The show eschewed traditional princess voluminous gowns, omnipresent embroidery, and typical mermaid cuts for 38 looks that forged almost architectural structures, exploring innovative volumes in collars and shoulder pads while embracing lightweight, ethereal fabrics for flowing, timeless dresses. Veils and trains were abbreviated, silhouettes became suggestively fluid through relaxed, lightweight fabrics, and sensuality was redefined with unexpected sheer panels and geometric cutouts.
Bold touches appeared in black gloves and stockings, including a standout light column dress topped with a cape that draped elegantly to the floor and a structured shoulder gown resembling a long trench coat with faux pocket detailing and floral trampantojo buttons. A notable ensemble featured a sleek skirt paired with a straight bandeau top, connected by smooth fabric that encircled the neck and cascaded down the shoulders into long sleeves.
Representing “new architectural visions in fashion, rooted in innovative structures and volumes inspired by Mediterranean style,” the collection marked Pronovias’ first directed at the contemporary woman, distinguishing itself by evolving the traditional bridal style to embrace avant-garde gowns.
“The new collection we presented is the most innovative and disruptive that Pronovias has designed in recent years. We felt it was crucial to launch it now, initiating a new chapter by introducing a style and brand proposition that offers a unique differentiation unavailable from any other player in the sector at this time,” explained Anna Ramirez, Pronovias’ design director.
The show culminated with the Pronovias team modestly taking the stage to applause, a fitting end underscored by the epic anthem “Barcelona” by Freddie Mercury and Montserrat Caballé, a final nod to the brand’s roots and allegiance to its birth city.
Not only did Pronovias sway audiences and critics with its latest offerings, but it also left Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week with the prestigious “Barcelona Brand” award, an apt celebration of its milestone anniversary.
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