“You are loved by so many that your name will continue on, a beacon of inspiration for others, and especially for me” were the words closing the heartfelt tribute Fausto Puglisi shared when the news of Roberto Cavalli’s death broke earlier this year.
During a video call to discuss his latest collection for the brand, Puglisi revealed that even if he and his team were aware of the late designer’s condition, the news still stung. Yet it contributed to pivoting Puglisi’s approach toward the label’s resort 2025 collection.
If so far the Sicilian designer has filtered Cavalli’s heritage through his individual point of view and updated the sexy codes of the house to make them relevant for today’s take on sensuality, with this collection Puglisi wanted to lean more on the founder’s signatures and celebrate his key fashion moments, especially his gilded age in the early 2000s.
No surprise then to see wild animal patterns dominating the first part of the collection and rendered in different ways, from prints on silk shirts to 3D jacquards on charming tuxedos. Zebra-print trenchcoats particularly stood out, either with statement volumes that instantly channeled diva vibes or in a leather version doubled with nylon for a more contemporary and daywear take on the theme.
These motifs also informed the more seductive pieces, from bias-cut slipdresses with lace intarsia and devoré frocks to minidresses covered in thermo-stitched crystals. Cavalli’s body-shirt design sensually revealing hips also made a comeback, either covered in leopard-like spots or splashed with a rose print that built the second big chapter of the collection, introducing a jolt of color.
Worked in red and pink, the floral reference shone on vibrant pieces, from fluid slipdresses with a jour detailing to relaxed T-shirt frocks, enriched by pleated or crinkled effects that contributed to early 2000s vibes and the overall sense of relaxed glamour.
“Very Puglisi” interventions made the collection credible for today, including poplin overalls, oversize shirts and cargo pants in zebra patterns and denim baggy options replicating the animal motif via sparkling applications. A western flavor — which Puglisi already explored in pre-collections two years ago, before Beyoncé took the theme to a whole new level — added to the accessories and contributed to the confident yet nonchalant attitude the designer conveyed with the lineup.
“I have the utmost respect for Roberto and his history. To be honest, every moment for me is a celebration of Cavalli,” concluded Puglisi.