Portrait of an Explorer, the title of Stine Goya’s pre-fall lineup, might suggest a historical inspiration, but the designer’s focus is actually more personal. “We’re talking about how you as a person explore your sights inside, how you can be super strong-minded and you can also be resilient or emotionally fragile—all of those parts of your personality,” she said on a call. What it all boils down to is a collection of looks that speak to different moods and occasions.
Goya has always had an eye for color and employs it on eye-catching solid separates that can easily be mixed into an existing wardrobe. Pearl fastenings were the designer’s fascination last season; hardware is the focus this season. A curve of metal tubing stamped with the brand logo attached to the collar of a suit jacket doubles as a kind of jewelry, as does a golden belt that wraps around a persimmon coat. Metal rings are used to create a pull-through effect on a draped jersey cocktail dress as well as on bags. Casual curved leg jeans are perfect for pairing with the brand’s Hailey Bieber-approved checkerboard sweater, now offered as a peach-and-mocha cardigan.
Pre-fall’s news is a photo print poppy; its stamens bedazzled on a sporty quilted bomber. Goya has largely moved away from her hand-created motifs, so it was nice to see an irregular sidestripe “drawn” onto a pair of pajama pants. As this Copenhagen brand has gone global it’s become dressier and more polished, but that a small nostalgic touch delivers on the “perfectly imperfect” boho charm and hop-on-a-bike ease that is also part of the brand’s DNA.