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runway_review

Ranra Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

by David Johnson
Ranra Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

It’s been seven years since Arnar Már Jónsson and Luke Stevens set off on their design adventure. Their ascent roughly coincided with fashion’s growing interest in technical gear, which their …

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ERL Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

by David Johnson
ERL Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

A part of Eli Russell Linnetz’s work for ERL that has gone unnoticed, or perhaps simply underreported, is its singular brand of male-on-male gaze. Linnetz is an adept storyteller, that …

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Lazoschmidl Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

by David Johnson
Lazoschmidl Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

It’s impossible, for this editor at least, to look at Lazoschmidl’s latest skivvy-focused collection and not think back to Calvin Klein and Bruce Weber’s ’90s underwear campaigns in which muscle-bound …

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Tom Ford Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

by David Johnson
Tom Ford Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

Under the creative direction of Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford 2.0, has so far focused its runway resources on the womenswear audience via two starry shows that incorporated menswear, yet within …

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Egonlab Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

by David Johnson
Egonlab Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

Given the global context, there’s a solid case to be made for taking a step back. This season, Egonlab founders Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix made a measured decision to …

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Winnie Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

by David Johnson
Winnie Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

There’s a new designer in town. A few weeks ago, Winnie founder Idris Balogun and his wife, Sira, relocated from Vicenza, Italy, to Paris. The reason: as the newly-appointed head …

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Alyx Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

by David Johnson
Alyx Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

Last we heard of Matthew M. Williams, back in December, the American designer had just announced his departure from Givenchy following the thought-provoking (if less headline-making) news that he had …

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Lu’u Dan Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

by David Johnson
Lu’u Dan Spring 2025 Menswear Collection

Two days ahead of the Lu’u Dan showroom visit, I was walking down rue Saint Martin when I spotted founder and designer, Hung La, seated at a table outside playing …

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Jenny Packham Resort 2025 Collection

by David Johnson
Jenny Packham Resort 2025 Collection

In London, the first warm days of summer are rolling in, and it seems the Jenny Packham woman is ready to party. Describing the client she was designing for this …

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Max Mara Atelier Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by David Johnson
Max Mara Atelier Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Fifteen Max Mara Atelier coats were presented in Venice at the modernist Olivetti store, a spare, elegant space overlooking St. Mark’s Square, designed in 1958 by Italian architect Carlo Scarpa. …

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