Eleven years ago, French-Tunisian designer Ahlem Manai-Platt launched her eyewear brand in Los Angeles. Following the opening of a boutique in the Venice neighborhood, this was followed by three more openings in New York, San Francisco and Paris in recent months.
Distributed in over 40 countries, offering more than 50 different models of sunglasses and optical eyewear, the brand is currently enjoying steady development, with a growth for 2023 of 20%. Having moved back to Paris last year, the designer has just launched her bespoke eyewear service, available in all the brand’s boutiques.
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FashionNetwork: You recently launched a bespoke eyewear service. Why this new development?
Ahlem Manai-Platt: It all started with a meeting with basketball star Lebron James. Lebron was already wearing a few models of our brand, but they were so small for him that it was imperative that I design perfectly sized glasses for him. Around the same time, Lebron’s stylist contacted us and asked if we could design some special models for him. We were on the same wavelength!
FNW: In which markets in particular does bespoke design work best?
A.M.P: Bespoke is available in all our boutiques from Los Angeles to San Francisco, New York and Paris. And the San Francisco market responds particularly well to this ultra-luxury offer. The process of designing specifically for someone is very intellectual, and I have the impression that San Francisco likes this cerebral rather than impulsive approach.
FNW: In practical terms, how does the bespoke service work?
A.M.P: It starts with our opticians taking the customer’s measurements in each of our stores. I then arrange a face-to-face meeting with the customer, either in person whenever possible, or via FaceTime. This is an important step in understanding the customer’s desires, aspirations, work, activities and lifestyle. Then comes the drawing stage, the one that seems most relevant to the customer. Once the design has been validated, a prototype is launched. If the model suits him, we choose the colors together and launch the production of two frames: one for the customer, one that we keep in case of loss or breakage.
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FNW: How much does a pair of Ahlem made-to-measure glasses cost?
A.M.P: The entry-level price is €2,500. The average waiting time is 6 to 9 months.
FNW: Your brand is now present in Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco and Paris. Which market is working best today?
A.M.P: We’re growing organically, with sales up 20% by 2023. It’s quite extraordinary, but all the boutiques are working! Our customers move from New York to Paris, from Paris to San Francisco, from San Francisco to Los Angeles.
FNW: Are you already thinking about other store openings? What markets are you interested in today?
A.M.P: The general goal is to open 10 boutiques in the United States in other cities where we are not present. I’m also interested in the Japanese market, with Tokyo, as well as Seoul for South Korea.
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FNW: You regularly launch collaborations, most recently with Beck and Jorden Bickham, but also with the Palais Galliera in Paris. What’s the next one ?
A.M.P: I love working with artists. They are an extraordinary source of inspiration for me. I love listening to the desires of creative personalities. As for the next collaboration, I can’t say anything yet, but it’s sure to be exciting.
FNW: You moved back to Paris a few months ago, do you miss California?
A.M.P: I love California, but Paris is extraordinary too. The idea of getting lost in Paris, of finding peace and quiet on a bench in a park, makes me happy. There’s a freedom in Paris that I don’t find in California. And I love walking! Maybe that’s the difference!
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