The Spirit of Diana Vreeland Floated Above Elie Saab’s Pre-Fall 2024 – WWD

Elie Saab looked to Diana Vreeland for his pre-fall collection, but not just as a muse who brought zebra prints and opulent floral touches, he was quick to say.

The designer also wanted to channel the unfussy coolness she and her successors brought to fashion, which he described as a carefully studied balance between high fashion and basics.

He went on to say that he too felt quite American in his approach. “I don’t tell a lot of stories; I go straight to the point,” he said.

Saab’s point is always offering plenty to his well-heeled clientele, here dipping into the ‘70s for simple yet flattering shapes.

This time, the options included asymmetrical tops, peplum jackets, tailored jumpsuits, midi dresses galore and a pleated shirt and trousers combination he anointed the “Elie Saab pajama.”

Although offering a wealth of options for daywear was his intention, the collection leaned into Saab’s couture glamour with its materials.

Tweeds were dappled with tiny sequins, satin was given a leather-like finishing treatment and laser cut to look like eyelet embroidery. Elsewhere, the wave design on a sporty blouson and shorts turned out to be a gradient of fil coupé embroidery.

And it’s not just Vreeland’s style Saab has been taking on board. “It’s not about the dress you wear, but about the life you lead in the dress,” she once said. With a new perfume and some 15 hospitality projects, including the recently announced branded residences in Saudi Arabia, Saab seems intent on offering his client everything she’s looking for — and then some. 

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