With the difficult economic climate and geopolitical tensions on the rise, from Ukraine to Israel and Gaza, designers have kept a low profile this season, offering for the most part essentials made to be worn. The marathon of men’s fashion shows in Florence, Milan and Paris, which ended on January 20, confirms the craze that has emerged in recent seasons for understated luxury, but in a more casual vein, where sporty pieces are making a comeback. For autumn-winter 2024/25, the emphasis is on great classics subtly revisited, with impeccable cuts and luxurious fabrics.
1. Discreet, casual luxury
A well-cut jacket, elegant trousers and a long, straight coat are the must-haves for next winter. Gone are the XXL sizes, and volumes and proportions have been scaled back. Tailoring is taking on a minimalist chic with a touch of Britishness, with countless tone-on-tone total looks in a neutral or autumnal palette, offered in the finest fabrics, from cashmere to tweed and superb wools, with a notable return to the great men’s classics.
Couturiers are vying with each other in their inventiveness to modernise the suit, which has been de-dramatised, now associated with easier pieces like the turtleneck or the jumper with a wide zip collar, and even with sporty pieces like the hooded sweatshirt, a must-have. Utility or workwear items such as cargo trousers, overalls or jackets complete the look. Including a chic version of a tracksuit.
2. The denim suit
Denim jackets and trousers, preferably cut from more resistant heavyweight indigo cotton, are the ideal embodiment of this relaxed tailoring trend. So much so that many designers have come up with their own versions. The cowboy version at Louis Vuitton, faded at Wooyoungmi and Dries Van Noten with baggy trousers, matched with a military jacket at Kenzo, in dark blue at Valentino, Dior Homme and Officine Générale.
3. Velvet
Autumn-winter 2024/25 undeniably marks the return of velvet. In particular, the omnipresent corduroy, in a rich palette of colours across jackets, shirts, trousers, coats and even shoes. From the chunky ribbing seen in trousers by Fendi or in Sacai’s voluminous down jackets, to the milleraie version adopted by many designers, including Kolor in slightly retro suits. Smooth velvet is making a comeback in some sublime suits, notably from Dries Van Noten, Giorgio Armani, Juun.J, Todd Snyder and with a textured effect from Ziggy Chen.
4. The duffle coat
After the pea coat in recent seasons, the duffle coat is making its comeback. This short coat of military origin in thick wool, recognisable by its patch pockets and distinctive Brandenburg buttons, with leather fastenings and horn or wooden buttons, is making a comeback in ultra-creative versions. Long and elegant in sky blue at Valentino, with asymmetrical buttoning at Sacai and Dries Van Noten, in suede at Dsquared2, lined with fleece at Magliano, with long, clearly visible rope ties, including on the cuffs, at Bed J.W. Ford.
5. Grandad style
Grandad style is all the rage. We’ve lost count of the number of old-fashioned cardigans and jumpers seen on the catwalks, preferably tied around the neck or waist. Quilted waistcoats, slightly worn tweed jackets with clearly visible elbow patches, corduroy trousers and woollen checked shirts are all essential for looking ultra-cool next winter.
6. Trompe-l’œil construction
Concentrating on jackets and coats, the designers varied the pleasures with trompe-l’œil creations, where the garment doubles up. At Sean Suen, the sides of an enormous jacket folded back onto themselves in two layers. Dolce & Gabbana let the satin lining protrude, buttoning up with a third row of buttons in a double-breasted blazer. At Winnie, the jacket was worn layered over another. Valentino offers a two-in-one coat in black and grey. Junya Watanabe reinvented the overcoat, with a trompe-l’œil jacket and trousers, again in a two-in-one spirit.
7. The removable maxi pocket
Practical, the large pocket can be worn on a jacket or trousers, tone-on-tone with ribbons as at Dries Van Noten. At Paul Smith or Ziggy Chen, it was attached to the waistband like a clutch bag, while Taakk integrated a classic jacket pocket to the waistband of pants. This practical, discreet accessory can also be combined with large patch pockets on jackets and trousers, not to mention the waistcoats with pockets that are still very much in vogue.
8. Our animal friends
Men are getting closer to nature with practical, high-performance all-terrain outfits, and above all to the animals they celebrate in beautiful jacquard jumpers. This is an opportunity to showcase knitwear – one of the season’s key pieces. Magliano and J.W. Anderson designed jumpers with cats. The S.S. Daley label prefers a rabbit munching a carrot, Kolor opted for a bear, White Mountaineering for an elephant, and Todd Snyder included a deer on a diamond jumper. Then there were the countless looks in faux fur, either yeti or pelisse, and a host of leopard prints.
9. Ball effect
While extra-large volumes have been abandoned, rounded shapes and the ball effect continue to fascinate fashion designers, who are multiplying the number of pieces with enveloping, protective sleeves and round curves. Like Rick Owens and his down jackets. Some went as far as to inflate garments, like MSGM did with some shirts.
10. The unique headwear
In the name of discreet luxury, if you don’t want to be noticed for what you wear, you’ll have to wear a hat. It’s the accessory par excellence that will define next winter’s silhouette. Especially if it’s extravagant. Fashion designers are having a field day with the most unusual creations. A Rudolf Nureyev-style turban for Dior, a kerchief with cascades of trompe-l’œil curls for Givenchy, a shower cap for Prada, a cowboy hat for Louis Vuitton, a chapka for Winnie, not to mention countless versions of balaclavas. Magliano reinterprets the Borsalino as a bibi for the festive season. Bluemarble stood out with a gigantic faux fur hat, while Walter Van Beirendonck reproduced some XXL models from his archives, created by the famous milliner Stephen Jones.
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