Undercover, Rochas, Cecilie Bahnsen, and Acne Studios illuminate Paris Fashion Week

Thursday witnessed an extraordinary day at Paris Fashion Week, showcasing women’s ready-to-wear for the Fall/Winter 2024 season. It was distinguished by standout moments, such as the breathtaking show presented by the widely acclaimed Japanese label, Undercover, and the successful debut of Alessandro Vigilante, the new creative director at Rochas. Additionally, Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen made waves by expanding her repertoire with her debut leather offerings, while the impactful showcase by Swedish label Acne Studios left a lasting impression on attendees.

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On this third day of women’s runway shows, Undercover pulled out all the stops with a particularly captivating collection. For the Fall/Winter 2024-25 season, Japanese designer Jun Takahashi curated the quintessential wardrobe for the contemporary multi-faceted woman with “all-encompassing” garments.
 
Takahashi redefined the fashion lexicon by innovatively reinventing the concepts of patchwork and hybrid clothing, skilfully deconstructing and reconstructing them like a jigsaw puzzle, with seemingly effortless finesse. He sculpted modern silhouettes from fragments of garments, primarily drawing from classics in the female wardrobe, seamlessly fused together to the point of imperceptibility. As the audience watched in apparent nonchalance, they hardly noticed the first model striding barefoot onto the stage amidst the buzz.

With a contemplative gaze, she moved gracefully as silence enveloped her, clad in a simple tank top and hastily pulled-on jeans over a beige wool legging, all seamlessly integrated to form a one-piece. In her hand, a camel sweater, with cuffs and the white cotton edges of a shirt peeking out, which she had not yet had time to properly put on. The designer, in his benevolence, sought to aid her in her daily race against time, offering complete ensembles crafted to navigate the various facets of her bustling day. Thus, he presented her with options ranging from the “wake-up-jogging-work” ensemble to the “sport-work-kids” outfit, and the “dinner-party-sleep” attire, among others.

These moments, recurring relentlessly each day, were eloquently and wittily narrated by filmmaker Wim Wenders’ voice-over, reciting his insightful prose titled “observing a working woman,” somewhat reminiscent of the iconic song ‘My Way’. After all, what woman hasn’t dreamed of stepping out in pajamas? Jun Takahashi realized that dream, layering a ribbed sweater and distressed jeans over satin pajamas.

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Elsewhere, tailored banker trousers enveloped an ethereal wool jumpsuit, marrying sophistication with comfort. A voluminous cardigan cascaded elegantly over a faux-fur dress, evoking the casual allure of a gray sweat suit. A polo shirt overlaid a turtleneck, seamlessly complementing a sequined or shimmering fringed skirt. These fringe embellishments delicately adorned the hem of a coat or the leg of trousers, gradually intensifying in a luminous array of copper or gold hues, echoing the layered textures throughout the ensemble.
 
What proved most intriguing was the seamless integration of diverse functionalities within a singular garment, creating an entirely novel and distinctive everyday wardrobe. The designer toyed with trompe-l’oeil effects, as others had done before him, yet devoid of any heaviness, both literally and figuratively. Indeed, his new uniform was crafted from lightweight fabrics and knits, often of minimal density.
 
Even a rose nestled into the pocket of one of the looks seemed as if it were simply patched on. As for accessories, they ranged from small leather bags adorned with metallic spikes to transparent tulle totes of varying sizes, perfectly compartmentalizing everyday essentials and experiences, alternately accommodating market purchases, baguettes, water bottles, wine bottles, and gym mats.

For his debut at Rochas, Alessandro Vigilante presented a refined collection that paid homage to the maison’s origins, showcasing opulent bathrobes and cover-up coats in jacquard wool with yellow and brown stripes. Gleaming satin dresses evoked the glamour of the 1920s, while a tailored suit featuring large faux-lynx fur pockets was flawlessly paired with pumps. Satin green quilts were transformed into cocoon coats and bombers, enveloping the wearer with a sense of effortless luxury.

The Rochas woman revelled in the art of mixing genres, juxtaposing black lace stockings with a futuristic wool skirt-top suit adorned with padded shoulders. Alternatively, she adorned herself with gray flannel men’s jacket layered over a skirt intricately embroidered with twisted silver PVC fringes – a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship of the house’s artisans, requiring 72 hours of dedicated work.

Among the guests at this inaugural presentation, the founder’s daughter, Sophie Rochas, enthused: “This is the most accomplished and beautiful runway show I’ve seen since taking over the house. The most couture, the most innovative, blending Rochas’ cuts, techniques, and colors,” she exclaimed.

“It featured the colors as well as the stripes that Marcel Rochas used a lot, which I mixed with my own hues, such as the electric blue seen in a pair of glamorous gloves. My objective was to reimagine the essence of the Rochas woman in the contemporary context, which I did by drawing inspiration from a 1939 photograph by Carlo Mollino featuring a woman draped in satin,” explained the designer.

“I also used lace, but as a second skin, accentuating its sensuality by incorporating motifs from Chantilly lace, a choice reminiscent of Marcel Rochas’ use of the same lace to adorn the packaging of his ‘Femme’ perfume. He was a true marketing pioneer! And beyond that, he revolutionised fashion with the invention of the guêpière, whereas before, only corsets were used,” Alessandro Vigilante recounted, delving into the house’s extensive archives, drawing inspiration mainly from the period between 1925 and 1950, tapping into Art Deco and Art Nouveau influences, imbued with a touch of surrealism.

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Cecilie Bahnsen expanded her creative horizon this season, moving away from the confines of lace and transparencies. For the Fall/Winter 2024 season, alongside the brand’s signature ethereal and romantic dresses, greater emphasis was placed on sleeved pieces and outerwear. Notable additions included a denim ensemble reminiscent of those offered last season, as well as trench coats, canvas jackets, twisted knit pullovers, and a series of leather pieces, a material introduced by the brand for the first time in this collection.
 
Ensembles featuring jacket and flared gathered skirts were meticulously tailored from worn black faux leather, boasting glossy reflections. The same material was employed to fashion a strapless mini dress with thin straps and a peplum jacket-dress, puffed at the sides, rendered in chocolate-coloured leather.
 
Among the standout pieces were a silver strapless dress seemingly crafted from aluminum foil cut into tiny flowers, as well as a beige trench coat that blossomed into a myriad of perforated flowers, revealing glimpses of their silver lining.

Meanwhile, Acne Studios heralded a stylistic shift with the unveiling of a dynamic and powerful collection on Thursday evening. Against a backdrop of pristine white, punctuated by giant poufs and armchairs crafted from rubber tire scraps by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo, models stormed the runway in monochromatic black or white ensembles. They showcased ultra-short leather or denim silhouettes, paired with pumps and high socks, accentuated by futuristic glasses and chrome metal jewelry evocative of automotive aesthetics.

Designer Jonny Johansson embraced clean, minimalist aesthetics, subverting the traditional archetypes of women’s attire, from fur stoles adorning the neck to the iconic little black dress. The Acne Studios woman donned sheath dresses or lightweight boned jersey dresses, complemented by elegant silk shirts featuring enhanced collars that spiraled with a semblance of stretchability, harmoniously paired with trousers.

A highlight of the collection was the high-necked bodysuit, provocatively exposed in the back by a long zipper, echoing the daring allure of the leather pieces. These included coat-like garments sculpted with rounded and rigid shapes, aged leather ensembles, second-skin nappa garments, and even a neoprene diving jumpsuit, each epitomizing the brand’s avant-garde ethos.