By now the Sephora baby trend has gone rampant, as tween children flock to high-end anti-aging skin care products, completely unnecessarily. Their TikTok-fueled skin care “education” has turned them on to products like Drunk Elephant retinol serums, leaving parents and dermatologists equally horrified.
Still, if we’re looking for a silver lining here, it may not be the worst thing that kids are increasingly interested in taking care of their skin. If you can channel that enthusiasm and point them in the right direction, there can be incredible long- and short-term benefits. But it’s paramount to understand the difference between helpful (SPF) and hurtful (vitamin C) products for young skin.
To help you guide your child toward a healthy, age-appropriate skin care routine, we tapped four dermatologists who are all too familiar with TikTok’s widespread skin care misinformation. They provided a roadmap detailing the aisles a Sephora baby actually can shop and which ones they should steer clear of for now.
Sunscreen should be used at all ages.
By the time your child is old enough to utter the words “Take me to Sephora,” they should already be using sun protection regularly, dermatologists insist. “Children as young as 6 months old can wear sunscreen,” said Dr. Dendy Engelman, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon practicing at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue in New York City, who advised an SPF of 30 or higher. So if you’re looking for a product to quell your kid’s skin care inclination, a gentle SPF lotion is a great place to start.
“I recommend more gentle, mineral-based formulations. For baby sunscreen, to prevent any potential irritation or rashes, look for ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, as these are hypoallergenic. Additionally, look for broad-spectrum coverage to ensure there is both UVA and UVB protection,” Engelman said.
In a way, SPF is all-age-appropriate anti-aging skin care. “Daily use of SPF is the most important part of skin care, especially in youthhood, to prevent any damage later on,” including excessive wrinkles, age spots and decreased skin elasticity, noted Dr. Jeannette Graf, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City.
Moisturizer and lip balm may also be used from a young age, as needed.
“Moisturizers can be used at all ages to maintain skin hydration and prevent dryness. Starting with gentle, fragrance-free formulas is essential for babies and young children,” said Dr. Jody A. Levine, an adult and pediatric dermatologist at Plastic Surgery & Dermatology of New York City. “Not [all] children need a moisturizer, but those with dry or sensitive skin will benefit from one.”
“Children with atopic dermatitis, asthma tendencies or just dry skin should always apply moisturizers after bathing,” Graf added.
If you’re looking for a good place to start, head toward ceramides and hyaluronic acid. “Humectants like hyaluronic acid can be introduced in adolescence to provide hydration and plumpness to the skin,” Levine added. “Although sometimes hyaluronic acid can cause dryness in some people, so it is not necessary to use it until [adulthood].” Additionally, “occlusives, like petroleum jelly, create a barrier on the skin’s surface to prevent moisture loss and can be used at all ages.”
“It is safe for all kids to use moisturizer. Just ensure the ingredients are gentle, hydrating and non-stripping,” Engelman added. “During the preteen ages, I encourage everyone to start incorporating moisturizer into their routine, at least once per day, but ideally morning and night.”
Like a gentle moisturizer, a lip balm may not be necessary for many children, but it can safely be used at any age if your child is experiencing lip dryness, which often doesn’t hit until puberty. Just make sure you “choose products without harmful additives or allergens,” such as fragrances, advised Dr. Kautilya Shaurya, a board-certified dermatologist at the Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City.
“Lip balms in the summer should contain sunscreen,” Graf added.
When puberty hits, tweens and teens may start a basic skin care ‘routine’ with a gentle cleanser.
When cleaning a young child’s dirty face, “a white bar of Dove soap is appropriate,” Levine said. However, when they reach puberty (typically at ages 10 to 13), it may be time to introduce a gentle cleanser. “If one uses cleansers too early, they can strip/disrupt the skin’s natural barrier and cause irritation,” she said. “Cleansers should be introduced around puberty to manage increased oil production and maintain skin hygiene.”
After your child cleanses, they can apply a moisturizer and, during the daytime, SPF.
In the beginning, it’s important to “keep the cleanser simple and gentle,” added Engelman. “I do not recommend incorporating any actives as of yet.”
Acne-fighting products may be incorporated as needed, starting at puberty.
If your child has acne, which often starts at puberty, it may be appropriate to incorporate acne-fighting active ingredients, though it’s wise to consult your dermatologist first.
“Hormonal changes often lead to oily skin or acne. At this stage, adding … mild acne treatments like salicylic acid can be appropriate,” noted Shaurya, who added you can also start with a “lower concentration” of benzoyl peroxide “from around 14-15 years.”
However, it’s important to keep watch for adverse effects. For example, benzoyl peroxide could irritate dry or sensitive skin. “There are many different types of acne topicals and medications, and they come with several side effects,” Engleman warned. “Some people experience dryness, irritation or redness from topical products, while oral medications come with their own set of side effects,” which can include nausea and sun sensitivity. Therefore, it’s important to monitor your child’s reaction closely and consult a dermatologist if you notice anything concerning.
For kids who have hit puberty, you may want to consider certain toners and exfoliants. “Toners can be used to balance the skin’s pH and remove residual impurities after cleansing and can also be used for exfoliation to treat or prevent acne,” Levine explained. “But if introduced too early, they can lead to dryness or irritation.”
To help avoid this, Shaurya recommended looking for mild, non-alcohol-based products for tweens and early teens. And though low concentrations of alpha and beta hydroxy acids (aka chemical exfoliants) “can be suitable for teens with acne or skin texture issues,” you should avoid high-concentration products and harsh scrubs.
It’s important not to overdo it. “For many teenagers, simple is best for their skin care routine,” Graf said. Also, when adding stronger active ingredients to a skin care routine, “sun protection remains essential,” Shaurya advised.
Retinoids can help fight breakouts but shouldn’t be used for anti-aging purposes until adulthood.
Before people were using retinol to help fight wrinkles, retinoids were used as an acne medication called tretinoin (under the brand name Retin-A). And though tretinoin can be safe for teens under the guidance of a dermatologist, products designed for anti-aging purposes — looking at you, Drunk Elephant — should be avoided until adulthood.
“Often dermatologists will prescribe tretinoin for [teens] experiencing chronic breakouts. Tretinoin can be great for gently exfoliating the skin, unclogging pores and decreasing inflammatory breakouts. This should be incorporated into your routine slowly and always recommended by a dermatologist,” Engelman said.
On the other hand, “anti-aging ingredients like vitamin C and retinoids are best introduced in adulthood when signs of aging start to become more noticeable,” Levine said. “Used too early, they can lead to irritation or sensitivity.” And they’ll make you more susceptible to sun damage, so keep up with the SPF.
Below, check out the safest skin care products for teens to use, according to dermatologists.
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Moisturizers
Bubble Skincare Level Up balancing moisturizer
Board-certified dermatologist Shereene Idriss recommends a lightweight gel moisturizer for tweens with oily skin, so we followed her guidance and found this pick from Bubble. It delivers lightweight, shine-free hydration along with skin-loving ingredients that can help keep skin balanced and smooth.
Tower 28 SOS Daily Skin Barrier Redness Recovery moisturizer
Dr. Blair Murphy-Rose, a board-certified dermatologist, noted the importance of a well-balanced, non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturizer and products that have specifically been tested on sensitive skin, so we used that guidance to find this pick from Tower 28. It was thoughtfully designed to be a simple daily moisturizer for people with sensitive skin and works to hydrate, soothe and reinforce the skin’s natural barrier.
The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
For those with dry skin, Idriss recommends a hydrating, glycerin-based moisturizer like this one from The Ordinary. It’s full of lush ingredients that can help to almost immediately perk up dry, flaky skin without adding irritating components or clogging pores.
Bioderma Sensibio Defensive active soothing cream
Similarly, this sensitive skin moisturizer from French Pharmacy staple Bioderma is a great option for young skin. Formulated with glycerin, an Idriss-approved skin care ingredient for tweens, it’s a great daily staple for any young person’s routine.
SPF
First Aid Beauty mineral sunscreen SPF 30
Nourishing ingredients like glycerin, avocado oil, vitamin E and zinc oxide make this light, non-greasy formula a great option for tweens. It can help to hydrate and soften skin while filtering out harmful UV rays, and it acts as a nice base for any light makeup they might want to experiment with. Best of all, it’s safe for sensitive skin and it’s non-comedogenic.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50
I love this water-resistant French pharmacy staple and find myself loading up on it every summer. It’s packed with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and is formulated for sensitive skin like mine. It’s one of the few SPFs that won’t clog my pores and cause breakouts. It doesn’t leave a white cast on my olive-toned skin, though it might on more melanated complexions. It has a soft matte finish and is full of skin-nourishing antioxidants. It meets several of our experts’ expectations and is a great option for tweens.
Cleansers
Neutrogena Ultra Gentle daily cleanser
Idriss recommends choosing a foaming cleanser for tweens with oily skin, like this drugstore staple from Neutrogena. It’s gentle enough for sensitive skin and will leave it feeling ultra-fresh and clean without stripping the natural moisture barrier. Per Murphy-Rose’s suggestion, it’s also fragrance-free, which is key in helping to avoid irritation, and it’s formulated for sensitive skin.
Paula’s Choice Calm Ultra-Gentle Cleanser
For those with dry skin, Idriss recommends a hydrating cleanser with a creamy gel texture. This cushy formula from Paula’s Choice is loaded up with glycerin, prebiotic sugars and triglycerides to leave skin silky soft and super clean. It’s fragrance-free and formulated for those with sensitive skin and issues like rosacea and eczema, so you can be sure it’ll be as gentle as possible.
Biossance Squalane + Amino Aloe Gentle Pore-Minimizing cleanser
My sister, while not a tween, has extremely sensitive skin and swears by this gentle foaming gel cleanser. It is formulated with nourishing ingredients like amino acids, aloe vera leaf juice and moringa — all gentle, skin-loving ingredients that won’t strip your young one’s natural moisture barrier.