If I had a peso for every feather-hat-wearing, turquoise-pendant-toting gringo I saw walking the cobbled, leafy loop of Avenida Amsterdam, I’d be able to afford the rising cost of a cappuccino in Condesa. I’m only joking (but not really), as Condesa certainly is Mexico City’s latest borough to make international waves, which can be seen in its rising culinary prowess—and the sheer number of foreigners moving here.
After going strong for nearly six years in the Colonia Juárez neighborhood of Mexico City, I had a change of heart. It happened suddenly, mostly thanks to a party held at a Condesa apartment (yes, it was hosted by an ex-New Yorker) that went from the evening well into the morning. It was around daybreak, from the comfort of a rooftop Jacuzzi, that I saw the view: It was a completely unobstructed vista of the Castillo de Chapultepec, which would be akin to viewing Central Park—while in a hot tub. At that moment, I decided I had to take the plunge, too. If I couldn’t beat them, I was going to join them. So I, too, packed my bags and moved to Condesa earlier this year. When I did, a Mexican friend jokingly asked me, “Mija, has your English improved?” (I was born in the States, and English is my first language, for what it’s worth!)
The castle views got me first—the silhouettes of the mountains and volcanoes, second—and then the parks. The neighborhood is home to both Parque México and Parque España, as well as a short walk away from the Bosque de Chapultepec, the city’s largest green space. And out of all the neighborhoods in Mexico City, Condesa is receiving the most investment in terms of hospitality. Andaz and the Mondrian recently opened, as well as Hotel San Fernando by Bunkhouse Group. Then there are the restaurant and café openings, which show no sign of slowing and are only increasing this leafy neighborhood’s demand.
From a Jewish delicatessen offering the best schnitzel and salty dill pickles in town to a Mexican-German chef serving up buttery lemon pasta that would leave even the most die-hard fan of Italian cuisine impressed, Condesa is officially on the map when it comes to where to eat and imbibe in Mexico City.