Why this California woman has ditched the US for Portugal

By Silvia Marchetti | CNN

Moving to a foreign country can be a scary decision. Particularly if it’s a country you’ve never even visited.

In 2021, Katie Meyer, a global hospitality communications professional from California, chose to do just that.

Meyer, who had previously lived and worked in London before returning to the US, relocated to Portugal during the Covid-19 pandemic, settling in the idyllic seaside resort of Cascais, close to Lisbon.

“My dream was to someday to return to Europe,” Meyer, 66, tells CNN. “Once remote work became standard and I sold my real estate in the US. I knew that relocation to Europe was a ‘now or never’ proposition.”

New chapter

Her personal and professional travels had taken her to many countries in Europe throughout the years, but never Portugal.

While the sunny Mediterranean climate and Portugal’s laid-back vibe were part of the allure, Meyer was ready for a new chapter in her life.

Safety, quality of life, affordable medical care, and a relatively simple path to permanent residency and citizenship, were high on her list of priorities for her future country of residence, and Lisbon ticked all of her boxes.

Signs of the pandemic were still very evident when Meyer arrived in the Portuguese capital with five suitcases in tow in August 2021.

“Few hotels and restaurants open, a fraction of the number of usual tourists, mask-wearing the norm, I felt like I had Lisbon to myself,” she says.

Meyer rented an apartment for three months in Lisbon at first. But after exploring the area, she fell in love with the charms of nearby Cascais, a former fishing village that has been luring many expats recently.

She was struck by Cascais’ unplugged and somewhat sleepy feel, which was something she wasn’t accustomed to, and the fact that locals didn’t seem to use mobile phones at the market or cafes.

“Here, time stands still, and people relish time together,” she says. “Things take longer. In place of any sense of urgency you find a happier, more laid-back lifestyle.

“But one that can be very frustrating to Americans addicted to frenetic beats and trapped in the rat race.”

She says she was taken aback by the genuineness of the Portuguese people, their pride and joy in learning that an expat had chosen their country as a new home, and their willingness to help when she was struggling to communicate.

“Portuguese is a very difficult language to learn, but they are always willing to help with pronunciations and usage,” she says. “It is very much a welcoming culture.”

‘Welcoming culture’

Later that year, Meyer bought a 95-square-meter, two-bedroom, split-level apartment with a roof terrace in a quiet neighborhood, close to cafés and cultural attractions.

Situated on a hill above the center of town, it offers striking views stretching from Cascais Bay and the ocean to the famous mountains and palaces of Sintra.

The purchase price was 595,000 euros (around $651,000). Even though Portugal saw an overall property price increase of 13.8% in 2021, with prices continuing to rise in the years since then, Meyer estimates that an apartment in a similar spot in California would have cost her at least triple.

Fortunately, Meyer was able to benefit from Portugal’s “golden visa” system, a five-year residence by investment program aimed at non-EU nationals, which is no longer available for real estate purchases.

To qualify, applicants were required to make a real estate purchase of a minimum of 500,000 euros ($547,000.)

The golden visa grants her visa-free travel through Europe’s Schengen Area. She also has the option to apply for Portuguese citizenship after holding a golden visa for five years, according to a recently amended law aimed at speeding up procedures.

But for Meyer, one of the cons to moving to a destination with such a slower-paced lifestyle has been getting through red tape, and she faced a wait of around two years to obtain her residency due to the Portugal’s previous long approval process.

“Word of mouth from others who have been through it reigns supreme,” she says. “And my advice would be to find a good attorney.”

Meyer says that Cascais’ strong sense of community played a part in her decision to build her new life there.

“People are very social and family-oriented,” she says. “On weekends I meet friends at the popular mercado, where, in addition to a farmers’ market, butchers, cheese and fishmongers, crafts, stands with clothing and household goods for sale, you can socialize and just watch the world go by.”

Savoring a creamy pastel de nata (egg or custard tarts) or a tosta mista (a grilled sandwich) at one of the local pastelaria shops is also a popular pastime here.

According to Meyer, the quality and speed of service in restaurants and hotels is slower than in the US, and deliveries and home repairs are also likely to take longer.

Culture clashes

“On the upside, a restaurant server would never, ever present a bill without a customer asking for it,” she adds.

“That would be considered rude, even with a line of customers waiting for a table. And you won’t see people eating or drinking on the go, as you would in the US.”