There’s naked dressing, and then there’s the weather in Sweden.
This winter has seen temperatures plunge to minus 25 degrees Celsius, so Jonny Johansson’s first instinct was to cover up. He opened his Acne Studios show with a yeti-style jacket made from Icelandic shearling, but it’s hard to escape the bare-skinned trend sweeping the fall runways, so he styled it with nothing underneath.
Models paraded across a blinding white set dotted with chairs made from recycled tyres by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo.
“I wanted a fast woman,” Johansson said backstage. Read that how you will. The show notes clarified the mood was “sculpted and futuristic,” but why not a little racy as well?
Hourglass molded leather dresses and coats gave dominatrix vibes, while second-skin nappa leather cycling suits featured contrasting red zips.
This season, the brand’s signature denim was dragged through the garage with oil-coated, metallic, and rust-inspired treatments. Highlights included a funnel-necked jacket with a glazed finish and floorsweeping buttoned coats.
Ribbed knit shrug sweaters with supersized collars exposed bare midriffs. Front row guest Willow Smith wore hers with an oversized denim jacket and pants, demonstrating how the look might translate to the street. “Acne is very fly,” she declared after the show.
Johansson is known for his craft-intensive approach, but with Gen Z wearing innerwear as a fashion statement, this collection nailed the balance between textural layers and the current obsession with toned legs: bodycon meets the great outdoors.
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