There are two types of fashion critics: those that like to absorb the full picture, and those that take copious notes to commit impressions to memory. Full disclosure: this reporter scribbles like a maniac.
About four looks into Casey Cadwallader’s fall collection for Mugler, it became clear that it was time to down pens and just sit back. The designer delivered another mindboggling spectacle stacked with modeling icons.
Against a giant black curtain, they emerged in dressed in sleek outfits that harnessed the tough glamor of bondage and the sensuality of the boudoir. Suddenly, the curtain dropped, the first of a succession of reveals using shadows and smoke to heighten each exit, as drones ran rings around the set.
Cadwallader was inspired by founder Manfred Thierry Mugler’s insect-inspired creations, working pointy panels into spiral-shaped constructions and sectioning the body with graphic leather straps.
“I really was sort of tempted by the dark side, but finding a beautiful balance point that was very, very glamorous at the same time,” he explained backstage. “Mugler is so much about empowerment and I think there’s different sides to that. It can be beautiful and light and airy, and it can also be hard.”
The lineup had flou, tailoring, velvet, leather and tweed, but above all, fierce attitude.
Irina Shayk strutted out in a burgundy leather coat that peeled open to reveal toned abs. Natasha Poly, with glossy, slicked-back hair, sported an oversized tailored jacket worn over a barely-there bra and buckled shorts.
Precious Lee looked regal in a black velvet dress that peeled open to the thigh, while Eva Herzigova coasted by in a black minidress with a swallow neckline.
A series of velvet looks were printed with the darkly atmospheric works of Canadian painter Ambera Wellmann, and Cadwallader beefed up the men’s portion of the show, with looks included a puffy midnight blue leather parka that was wet-molded into tight pleats.
In tribute to Mugler’s pioneering use of fake fur, he developed a shaggy material made of nylon hair embroidered with strips of patent leather, and who better to model it than Farida Khelfa, a regular client of the brand. “I just DMed her and I was like, ‘Would you ever walk in Mugler?’ And she was like, ’It’s about time you asked!’” he recalled.
No wonder industry legends are lining up to be cast in his shows. The man behind the curtain is something of a whizz.
For more Paris Fashion Week reviews, click here.