I’m a beauty editor who has naturally thin lips. This doesn’t bother me. In fact, I’ve resisted offers for lip filler from multiple professionals over the years. I don’t resist because I’m necessarily opposed to them. I resist because they’re simply not for me (translation: lip filler is expensive and I don’t want to have to keep scheduling upkeep appointments).
That doesn’t mean I always leave my lips alone. There are times when I want an ever-so-slightly fuller and poutier appearance. In the past, this is when I would reach for a lip plumper. Even though I don’t use them often, I keep a couple of good ones around, including one specific high-tech lip plumper that offers instant and long-term results.
This brings me to the current day. While I was scrolling through social media, I happened upon a video from a beauty expert claiming that the combination of peptides and hyaluronic acid can visibily plump the lips—as in “my lips look fuller without any filler or plumper.” Obviously, my interest was piqued, and I needed to investigate the verity of this newfound information. So, I turned to two trusted dermatologists. Ahead, learn all about this lip-plumping combo.
The Basics of Hyaluronic Acid
Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Shafer Clinic in New York City. She says hyaluronic acid (HA), occurs naturally in our bodies. ” It can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it a superstar hydrating skincare ingredient.” In the short term, Engelman says HA hydrates, plumps, and enhances elasticity in the skin. “Particularly in the delicate lip area, where the skin is thin and prone to signs of aging, hyaluronic acid delivers hydration and has a plumping effect, resulting in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin. Eliminating lines around the mouth also helps make the lips appear fuller.”
The Basics of Peptides
Tiffany Jow Libby, MD FAAD FACMS is a board-certified Mohs Surgeon and Dermatologist. She’s the Director of Mohs Micrographic and Dermatologic Surgery and an Assistant Professor of Dermatology at Brown University Warren Alpert Medical School. She says peptides are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein. “They are essentially ‘mini proteins’ that play various roles in biological processes, including cell signaling, tissue repair, and collagen synthesis. Peptides can offer several benefits for the skin and lips as collagen-stimulating peptides can help stimulate both the production of collagen and elastin to promote skin firmness, elasticity, and overall appearance.”
Engelman agrees, adding “Peptides coordinate the skin’s natural healing mechanisms, reducing lip pigmentation and treating creases and lines around the lips without affecting the skin’s protective layer.”
How They Work in Tandem
Engelman says peptides function as messengers within the skin, encouraging the skin to ramp up collagen production. Meanwhile, HA maintains proper moisture balance and environmental conditions for collagen production to continue. “Together, these two processes encourage strong collagen synthesis, which strengthens the skin and reduces wrinkles. Peptides and hyaluronic acid work together to strengthen the skin and provide essential moisture, resulting in a healthier barrier and a refreshed younger appearance.”
So, Can This Ingredient Combo Really Plump Lips?
The short answer is yes, this ingredient combo can visibly plump the lips. Take it from Engelman. “Hyaluronic acid effectively hydrates the lips, giving them a fuller, plumper appearance when applied topically. The secret to this is hyaluronic acid’s capacity to draw and hold onto water molecules, as a humectant; in fact, the hydration and plumpness of youthful lips are largely due to this acid’s abilities. Peptides, on the other hand, act more gradually, thus for best effects, they must be applied consistently over a period of weeks to months.”
Libby agrees, saying HA “when applied topically will help achieve a temporary plumping effect by drawing moisture from the surrounding environment into the lips, resulting in increased volume and improved lip contour.” These effects are generally temporary, lasting “for a few hours to days depending on the formulation and concentration of hyaluronic acid used.” Pair HA with peptides, and that’s when you achieve longer-lasting results. “Peptides stimulate collagen production in the skin and the lips, and work to restore and enhance the fullness of the lips over time,” she says. “Collagen production in general declines with age, and the extent of lip plumping achieved will vary between individuals and may not be as dramatic and long-lasting as with cosmetic procedures such as lip fillers.”
In other words, the combination of HA and peptides works instantly and over time to visibly improve the appearance of the lips, including smoothness, plumpness, and fullness. “Although peptides and hyaluronic acid don’t permanently increase lip size, when used in tandem, they can successfully reduce wrinkles and give the skin/lips a more youthful, plump, and hydrated appearance,” Engelman says.
How Often Do You Have to Apply HA and Peptides to See Results?
Both dermatologists say that consistent application is the key. “You will notice some improvement rather immediately due to the hyaluronic acid effects and some longer-term results from consistent use of the peptides. The degree of plumping achieved may vary depending on factors such as formulation, concentration, and an individual’s baseline skin characteristics,” Libby says.
As for Engelman, she recommends using an HA and peptide lip balm up to three times per day for best results. “Using lip products with HA/peptides consistently for about 3-4 weeks should make the lips appear plumper and more voluminous. I recommend using the lip balm at least three times per day for best results.”
The Best Hyaluronic Acid and Peptide Lip Balms
SkinMedica
Ha5 Smooth & Plump Lip System
Both derms recommend this. ” I recommend this clinically-backed two-step lip treatment from SkinMedica, which plumps, smooths and hydrates, while improving the color of the lips,” Engelman says. As for Libby, she says, “This lip system uses both hyaluronic acid and peptides to improve lip skin health by delivering hydration and promoting production of collagen and elastin for more volume, fullness, and smoothness.”
The INKEY List
Tripeptide Plumping Lip Balm
A personal favorite, this lip balm contains 6% tripeptide complex and 2% ultra-filling hyaluronic acid spheres for fuller, plumper lips. The best part? It’s budget-friendly.
Revision Skincare
Youthfull Lip Replenisher
“This is another excellent formula that hydrates and plumps with hyaluronic acid to improve the appearance of the lips, while providing defense against external aggressors with powerful antioxidants,” Engelman says.
Paula’s Choice
Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster
HA, peptides, and squalane make this lip balm a plumping and hydrating hero.
Dr Dennis Gross
Derminfusions Plump + Repair Lip Treatment
This fast-acting lip treatment uses 4 molecular weights of hyaluronic acid and a volumizing complex of tripeptides, along with ectoin, bisabolol, and centella asiatica to transform the lips. It’ll take them from thin and dry to full and moisturized.
Kosas
Plump + Juicy Lip Booster Buttery Treatment
This buttery balm contains HA, peptides, and concentrated fatty acids to repair lips.
Engelman also recommends this silky lip mask. “This beautiful lip mask nourishes and conditions lips overnight with a blend of hyaluronic acid, reparative lipids and natural oils,” she says.
Clarins
Hydra-Essentiel Lip Balm
This rosy balm lip balm contains HA, peptides, blue lotus essential wax, and cocoa extract. Together, these ingredients smooth, hydrate, plump, and protect.
PCA SKIN
Hyaluronic Acid Lip Booster
The addition of antioxidants and botanical ingredients make this lip balm inherently anti-aging.